Mickaël Pihours (previously chef at Michelin-starred Le Gambetta) has opened a contemporary "cantine plaisir" with lots of wood features and furnishings. The restaurant room is built over two levels, with a table d'hôte facing the open kitchen. The food – designed for sharing – leaves no doubt that we are in the hands of a seasoned chef: pared back to the essentials, his dishes come with an array of garnishes enhanced by aromatic herbs. A case in point is the barbecued organic pork loin and its host of tasty accompaniments (a well-seasoned salad; mushrooms in a savoury broth; a small dish of juicy vegetables). In addition, a few fine cuts of meat for sharing, often offal. The menu changes every week.