Hotels

Quite a few Roman hotels treat the city’s ancient history as a contrasting background note, and feel free to pursue their own vision in an unapologetically modern direction. But Nobildonne Relais dives deep into its past. The Palazzo Mereghi was built in the late 19th century, but in a neo-Renaissance style that vividly recalls the 16th. In its modern incarnation it seeks to recreate the environments of four Roman noblewomen from the 16th and 17th centuries, to each of whom it dedicates one of its four lavish suites.

We’re talking high ceilings with Renaissance-style frescoes, Venetian mosaic tile floors, and space for three or even four adults, in the Paolina Borghese double-double suite. Also available is the villa’s salon, with plentiful seating and a fireplace that serves as the social hub of the house. You’re free to help yourself to a drink in the salon, or a Nespresso in your suite, but for more than that, you’re out on the street — this is more a guest house than a hotel, and lacks such ordinary hotel services as a 24-hour front desk; a restaurant is quite beyond its ambition. But fear not, as this corner of Rome, near the Spanish Steps, Via Condotti, and Via del Corso, is chock full of restaurants, cafés, and bars, not to mention more high-fashion shops and historical sites than you could visit in a month.