Dar Kandi

From the perspective of a hotel aficionado, the best thing about Marrakech might be the wealth of small, private riad hotels in the medina. These inward-facing courtyard houses hide behind the walls that line the streets of the old city center, each one containing a subtly different mix of classic Moroccan romance, contemporary elegance, and modern luxury. Dar Kandi, a 1915-vintage residence in Bab Doukkala, near the central Jemaa el Fna, has always been among the notable ones, but it’s only now, after a 2018 renovation by its new Italian owners, that it’s become an absolute must-stay.

What sets it apart is subtle, just a certain ineffable stylishness combined with an atmosphere that’s relaxed and luxe, but not ostentatious. With just six rooms it never feels busy, and in fact with three terraces — one for the pool and solarium, one which serves as a lounge, and a third that functions as a backup dining room — it’s not hard to feel like you’ve got the whole place to yourself. The cuisine is traditional, as is the hammam, and the staff is only too happy to arrange your excursions. If you’re looking for a new pied-à-terre in the Red City, this just might be your place.