This Bushwick counter has finally returned, and some things have not changed. You still have to walk through Roberta’s, past the roaring pizza ovens and through the backyard, to find this lofty space. The playlist is as high-energy as ever, and the mood is collectively lighthearted. As for what’s new, the kitchen is now under the command of Chef Victoria Blamey, who brings her own style and story to this robust tasting menu. Oyster with kalamansi cream, Dungeness crab empanadas, and surf clams with nixtamalized sweet potato reflect wide-ranging inspiration; and something is always grilling, like dry-aged pheasant or grass-fed lamb.