Heure Bleue Palais - Relais & Châteaux

If Marrakech is a city that never sleeps — chaotic, colorful, romantic, and cramped — then Essaouira is a seaside town that would rather take a leisurely siesta in a hand-woven hammock. The old-fashioned port city has long drawn surfers to its stunning Atlantic beaches and the occasional guidebook-toting tourist to its ancient medina; these days, a wave of style-conscious travelers have started showing up to revel in the laid-back atmosphere at a handful of new boutique hotels.

L’Heure Bleue is housed in a traditional riad, and it feels out of another era entirely, complete with a flowering central courtyard, a billiards room, glowing glass lamps, and a colonial-style bar — but with a few notable exceptions. First there’s the cool rooftop terrace and pool, overlooking the old medina, and then there’s the cinema room and a small but lovely spa. The guest rooms themselves mix classy colonial with up-to-the-minute amenities. Four styles of suites — African, Portuguese, English, and Oriental — follow slightly different design schemes, but all have king-sized beds, wireless internet access, and oversized bathtubs.

A Moroccan-style breakfast of dark coffee, fresh fruits, and pastries is served in the open-air courtyard. Later in the day you’re faced with a choice between the obvious merits of the chef at L’Heure Bleue and an evening spent wandering the shadowy streets of the medina in pursuit of a local joint. The freshly caught seafood and laid-back natives make the charming Essaouira even more appealing — though no one will blame you for planning on a nightcap back at the hotel’s deliciously atmospheric bar.