L'Abbaye de Talloires

Air doesn’t get much fresher than the stuff they’ve got breezing around at Abbaye de Talloires. The hotel, a converted Benedictine monastery from the days when the French monastic life was a scandalously plush one, is set at the edge of a pristine lake in the French Alps. That lake, specifically, is Lac d’Annecy, and it’s been drawing writers, artists, and savvy leisure-chasers for the better part of a couple centuries now, with the biggest names among them staying at Abbaye de Talloires. That may sound a bit snobbish, but when someone like Cézanne is compelled to visit a rural hotel known for its gardens and clear waters and vivid light, the endorsement nonetheless rings.

Though you’ll find the standard modern amenities, change has arrived slowly. Entertainment still comes largely in the form of lounging by the shore, strolling around the grounds, perusing the hotel’s art exhibitions and occasionally taking in a classical concert held in the gallery. During the summer months, the pastime of choice is hanging out on the lime tree–shaded terrace, lingering over meals. The fare is light and fresh — herbs from the hotel’s garden, fish from the water lapping below, meat and seasonal produce from the local markets. If the food has a sort of relaxed sophistication, the wine list is downright serious. Should you prefer your wine at least half a century old, there’s plenty to choose from, though you’re spoiled for choice in the 30-euro range, too. Just don’t expect to go drinking your way through the trendiest New World upstarts. This is, after all, an old French country hotel, and Germany and Switzerland are about as exotic as it gets.

Nor are the interior decorators particularly swayed by the latest international design trends, which is fair enough when you’re working with a beautiful, centuries-old abbey. Antique oak furniture, oversized drapes and exposed timbers are more the norm, while the most original room (the Prior’s) has parquet floors laid down in 1681. Given the setting, what’s perhaps most important is that every room comes with a view.

How to get there: L’Abbaye de Talloires is located 23 minutes by car from Gare d’Annecy (TGV Station).