A gleaming, square bar anchors the center of this attractive, sizeable restaurant styled with a floor-to-ceiling glass wine cellar and personalized wine lockers placed throughout the room. The menu is broad in its reach, swinging from Manchego and serrano ham croquettes to hamachi crudo with passion fruit and then onward to a wide selection of steaks. As expected, everything is made in-house, and no corners are cut. This is especially true of the Caesar salad, a triumphant tower of gem lettuce, snow peas, garlic sourdough, and aged Parmesan. Much like the restaurant itself, it walks a fine line of comfort, creativity, and class.