Mole is everywhere at Chef Celia Florián’s restaurant, which opened in 1992. You can find it served with plantains, inside large empanadas, and on top of enchiladas. But from amarillo to coloradito to verde, the one that shines brightest is her mole negro. Black as night, smoky, and tantalizingly charred, it needs nothing more except for a tortilla or a bit of rice. This recipe and many others have deep roots: Florián grew up on a farm in La Ciénega and learned to cook from her mother and grandmother. Another highlight is the wonderful garnachas istmenas, crispy masa cakes topped with tender shredded beef buried under a pile of pickled cabbage. Still to this day, Florián enjoys global recognition for her contributions to Oaxacan cuisine.