César Ramirez is one of the few chefs who, night after night, has the difficult task of meeting his own standards of high-wire precision. His downtown restaurant brings a sleek, minimal look to a century-old address, and as might be expected, world-class seafood shipped from all over plays a large role in his tasting menu. Recent highlights include Norwegian langoustine with shiso and caviar, Japanese akami tuna with tomato water dashi, and sawara with yuzu kosho. A masterful hand with sauces and a sense for harmonious combinations demonstrate a refined sensibility. An eager service team oversees the spacious room where counter and table seating alike offer a prime vantage point for watching this kinetic kitchen.