This legendary establishment dating back to 1946 is the epitome of French classicism. Run by the Gardinier family (also owners of Les Crayères in Reims), Taillevent is nothing short of an institution. In the hushed and intimate setting of what used to be the Duke of Morny's private mansion (19C) you feel at a remove from the world outside. Chef Giuliano Sperandio (previously Christophe Pelé's sous-chef at Le Clarence) is now in charge in the kitchen. On the menu: turbot from small-scale fishing, chanterelles and summer truffles; "Taillevent tradition" langoustine boudin; and veal fillet à la ficelle, artichoke and periwinkles. The desserts are heavenly, especially the crêpes Suzette, flambéed first with Grand Marnier and then with Cognac. Last but not least, the superb wine list reads like a compendium of vintage tipples.