What started life as a pop-up in 2020 is now a permanent spot in the heart of the city, owned and run by three friends who also operate wine bar Flawd, seafood and cocktail spot Bar Shrimp, and a market garden in the Cheshire countryside. The latter provides much of the top-quality produce found on the menu, in dishes that are designed for sharing and packed with flavour. Sit at the large counter to see the chefs putting care and pride into every dish, be it cheddar tart with mustard leaf or Scottish halibut with purple sprouting broccoli. The whole team, led by the owners, are charming and cheery.