With sumptuous design that straddles garish and chic, boasting walls splashed with an impressive private collection of modern art (including pieces by Calder and Warhol) here you'll find a visual feast—as well as the hottest table in town. Reservations book weeks in advance, so if you're seeking a spur-of-the-moment meal, your best bet is to arrive before doors open and put your name down for a coveted bar seat. A precisely made martini is practically de rigueur; one particularly pricy option has a caviar-topped deviled egg for a garnish. It would be easy to spend a small fortune here on items like roasted king crab legs or Ossetra with blini, but hearty American fare, like a signature burger dressed up with melted Comté, is still very much in fashion.