The spare interior reminds us of a tea hut, its shelves casually stocked with water jugs used in the tea ceremony. On one earthen wall, an implement used to pierce bags of rice to take samples hangs like a flower arrangement. Omakase set menus place the accent on nigiri. First up is gizzard shad, an item notoriously difficult to get right. Boiled octopus, conger eel and egg follow, each accomplished in proper sushi shop fashion. Refined, no-nonsense sushi, the way it’s meant to be.