The chef cultivated his free-ranging creativity at a Naniwa kappo, his genial customer service at a bistro. His creative flair is on full display in his combinations of ingredients. Pairings such as sweetfish with peach, barracuda with persimmon, and Spanish mackerel with apple marry fish of the season with the sweetness, tartness and flavour of fruit. Great care is taken to offer a wide selection of organic wines that have affinity for each offering. The chef’s philosophy is that originality must be firmly grounded in the basics, and his cuisine attests to it.