Everyone is drawn to restaurateur Jen Agg's hip, boisterous venue, which manages both style and substance with confident charm. An excellent wine list is paired with a small, mercurial menu that punches above its weight class, where ostensibly simple, unassuming dishes turn out to be heavy hitters. Raw items like oysters and crudos are commendably fresh, and the house-made pastas are real showstoppers. Take as an example the cavatelli, resting in a chili oil along with braised oxtail and crispy fried tripe. The menu might only offer a duo of desserts, but they’re just as inspired as the rest—in other words, not to be missed.