Vallejo isn’t the first place that springs to mind when you think elevated cuisine, but a seat at this reputed dining counter will have you feeling like you stepped into an episode of Chef’s Table. The space itself is simple and intimate, furnished with a handful of tables and seven seats overlooking the kitchen, so book your spot in advance. It’s a laid-back scene, where the focus remains squarely on the food.

Chef Warring, who hails from Napa's esteemed Auberge du Soleil, spins his well-honed skill and technique on pristine seasonal products, and the results are enticing. Think of ocean trout crudo with shaved hearts of palm and kohlrabi microgreens; or perfectly seared sous vide ribeye with sautéed maitake mushrooms.