Seiji Matsushima grows crops and makes pottery. He doesn’t just knead earth, though, he also kneads soba. The thin juwari soba set out on dishes he made himself exudes rusticity and the way of life of a self-described farmer. He grows the buckwheat berries for the sobagaki himself. Basil picked in the field in the summer is served with soba topped with a thick dashi-rich sauce, and winter yuzu is served with hot soba. Grated daikon is used in place of wasabi.