Riad Laaroussa

Spend a few hours in the raucous, twisting alleys of Fes el Bali — the larger of the two walled old cities in Fes, Morocco — and you’ll understand why riads exist. This traditional Moroccan dwelling solves nearly all the problems of the sweltering, dusty streets with time-tested architectural panache. High, terraced walls enclose a lush courtyard complete with citrus grove and gurgling fountain; the combination ensures refreshingly cool air, privacy, and a contemplative retreat from the pressures of the world at large. Like many classic riads, Riad Laaroussa’s recent renovations (say that five times fast) have brilliantly restored the captivating Moorish visual appeal and storybook construction details of this 17th-century landmark. Slow, majestic, almost preserved in amber, it strikes an expert balance between ritual relaxation and the timeless practice of luxury.

There are only eight rooms, allowing for unrivaled intimacy — with highly attentive service from Fred Sola and his family when you need it. Each is themed by color, though nary a wall goes by without some element of the region’s gorgeous decorative heritage: everywhere you’ll find intricate terra-cotta tile mosaics overlaid with rich calligraphic motifs. High ceilings, arches and arabesques abound, rewarding the roving eye with exquisite filigrees on the keyhole doorways, behind the second floor’s parapet, and throughout the property’s charming abundance of nooks and alcoves. It’s never overstuffed, however, as tranquility drives the design at least as much as ornament. For all the palatial regalia, there’s also the clean simplicity of the bed linens, the fireplace in each suite, the fresh floral arrangements, and the noticeable lack of intrusive tech. Not to worry, you’ll have wi-fi, but you also won’t have to puzzle through a proprietary tablet app just to set the temperature.

This being Fes, it simply wouldn’t do to pass up the on-site hammam and spa, all Carrara marble and authentic tadelakt plaster; these 18th-century facilities and methods aren’t broken, and they certainly don’t need fixing. There’s a guest-only bar and restaurant with complimentary cooking classes (yes, it’s a great idea — they’ll take you to the market and walk you through multiple preparations). After all, Fassi dishes are rightfully considered an apex of Mediterranean cuisine, especially when prepared in earthenware tagine pots to intermingle strong spices, cold-pressed oils, and all manner of regional vegetables and meats. Enjoy it on the rooftop terrace with a bottle of Meknes wine and a 360-degree view of the ancient cityscape. As night falls and the lanterns imbue the courtyard with a mystic, flickering glow, you’ll drift naturally into a potent, Fes-specific mesmerization. One of those Instagram-proof moments, rare though they’ve become.