M. Wells has had a front-row seat to Long Island City’s transformation ever since it opened in a converted auto-body shop in 2013. But through every new skyscraper and food trend, Chef Hugue Dufour has stuck to his Canadian-French roots. Be warned: The little chalkboard menu does not convey the sheer boldness with which everything is salted, peppered and spiced. You could make a meal out of the appetizers. A tomato peanut butter katsu sandwich? Sure thing. Buttery mashed potatoes fried into balls? Bring it on. Wagyu, filet mignon wrapped in bacon, a tower of pork chops dripping in anchovy butter – this is food packed with delicious, heartwarming calories. Fire-engine red banquettes, exposed brick and an open kitchen always keep the room lively.