A swim at the iconic, restorative, and utterly Instagrammable Blue Lagoon has been an essential to-do for Iceland’s visitors for years, but the addition of The Retreat Hotel has turned it from bucket list stopover to one-of-a-kind destination.
What began as a local spot to soak in the steamy runoff water from a nearby geothermal energy plant was shaped into an international wellness sensation, attracting over a million visitors a year—a grand number considering Iceland’s entire population tops out at 365,000. Recognizing the site’s popularity, and the healing power of the water, the Blue Lagoon expanded from day visits to the overnight offering of an ultra-luxe hotel complete with private lagoons, an underground spa, and lavish suites.
Here’s everything you need to know about planning a stay at The Retreat at the Blue Lagoon.
The Hotel
It’s a short walk from the packed lobby of the public Blue Lagoon we all know and love to the vaulted entry of the ultra exclusive 62-room Retreat, but the two entryways feel worlds apart. The Retreat is enveloped in a calm hush that relaxes the senses, dark but refined decor that could have grown directly from the lava on which the property stands, with attentive staff that quietly and competently address any needs that arise. The architecture feels in harmony with the surrounding environment, the connection with nature evident in every detail. Guests drift towards the star-spangled ingress of the spa in their robes, the unofficial uniform of The Retreat.
Upon checking in, I am outfitted with a chipped bracelet required to enter my suite, the spa, and even to make use of the cell phone lockers that keep discretion a priority. Photos are not allowed in the spa for privacy purposes, but it’s also a cheeky way to unplug, uplifting the investment in wellness. Of course, the Blue Lagoon is highly photogenic, so ask the receptionist at the spa to take photos for you to capture the moment.
My room is sized generously, with a cozy king bed that I already anticipate missing. There is a floor-to-ceiling window looking out over the moss-covered lava fields, offering an ample enough sky view should the Northern Lights grace me with their presence. A bathtub is thoughtfully situated at the perfect angle to amplify an aurora appearance, but is also useful for minimizing time at the Retreat spent not soaking. This place is, in short, a bather’s haven.
The Restaurants
Considering the Blue Lagoon’s distance from Reykjavik—a 50 to 60 minute drive in good weather—it’s much more convenient to dine onsite. Fortunately, The Retreat is accompanied by two fantastic options: the upscale Moss, part of the MICHELIN Guide selection, and Lava, a more casual affair built directly into the lava rocks for which it’s named. There is also an a la carte restaurant in the spa perfect for grabbing a post-massage lunch, and breakfast is included for every guest.
The mood-lit Moss is located above the lobby of the Retreat, and offers a tasting menu crafted by executive chef Aggi Sverrisson, who returned home after earning his MICHELIN Star in London. The multi-course menu—your choice of omnivorous or vegan—is evocative of the surrounding environment, relying on locally-sourced ingredients to fill artfully-plated dishes. While the menu shifts with the seasons, guests can always expect to be nourished by Iceland’s bounty, and delighted by their presentation.
The flavor of Iceland comes through at the outset in the bread serving, thanks to butter mixed with skyr, a yogurt-like concoction endemic to Iceland that gives the spread a creamy tartness. Subsequent dishes are visually captivating and pay homage to Scandinavia, like the Icelandic scallops with caviar and locally-made wasabi served under a cloud of dry ice, and the lamb grilled directly on a heated lava rock beneath a foraged tree; all presented on a pushcart.
While Lava is more brightly-lit and offers a larger number of seatings in the great lava rock hall, the menu is no less delectable. The a la carte menu takes a classical approach to Icelandic cooking, with a garlic-packed langoustine soup and arctic char with horseradish and yuzu as notable highlights among the starters. Icelandic cod is globally recognized, and must be recommended as a main dish, but the lamb filet and locally caught fish of the day also easily satisfy.
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The Spa
Floating buoyantly among the opaque, cyan water for which this popular geothermal spring is known, it’s easy to forget that up until recently, this could only be done among large crowds. Now guests of The Retreat can peacefully enjoy the pleasure and healing-packed properties of the Blue Lagoon, with pools adjacent to the hotel structure, canals meandering under arched bridges, and many more nooks and crannies to explore.
Before ditching the robe and soaking my hair with conditioner to enjoy the water, I navigate the length of the indoor part of the spa, descending into the subterranean setup. Many doors lead to treats within, and I find myself reclining by a fireplace, sipping free-flowing water naturally sieved through the lava rocks, and curling up in a nest-like, hanging chair.
Eventually it’s time for me to walk to the end of the spa for my treatment: float therapy. I walk into the private inlet to greet my in-water therapist, who will harmonize me with the water through delicate stretches and light massage. The goal is to let go, so I surrender to weightlessness and darkness as Ingrid affixes me with floating devices, covers my eyes, and begins to move my body through the water - which beforehand she tells me will feel like dancing. Over the course of an hour I enter a meditative state, no longer acquainted with stress, but very much aware of the expansion of my spirit. Many other treatments are available, but float therapy is a deeply Icelandic experience that I can highly recommend.
The Ritual
When the spa gets to the most subterranean point, there is a dark cave built into the lava rocks, punctuated by three chambers and rainfall showers. You have reached The Ritual.
The success of the Blue Lagoon can be in no small part attributed to the bioactive elements of the water—silica, algae, and minerals—and The Ritual creates a space to become acquainted with them each individually, resulting in a collective rejuvenative experience. After showering, The Ritual begins with exfoliating the skin using rich minerals, followed by an all-over silica mask to nourish the skin. Once it’s dried and washed off, finish with a body mask of algae before greeting a technician at the lava rock counter for a face oil. This is an included experience that does not require reservations.
Lava junior suites at The Retreat begin at $1,560 USD per night.
Hero image: © Blue Lagoon Iceland
