It seems nearly impossible to have a bad time at Chef Rob Rossi’s Italian stunner. Flickering candlelight bounces off cream-colored walls and blond-oak tables running down the length of this restaurant that feels, at all times, totally under control thanks to a suave staff. And whereas many Italian menus can look the same, Rossi narrows in on the seafood-rich traditions of Liguria. A superbly light vitello tonnato and a piping hot Ligurian flatbread stuffed with stracchino offer promising starts. There must be pasta, like squid ink spaghetti with Nova Scotia lobster, and there must be panna cotta. A deep Italian wine list and an especially talented cocktail program round out an experience that is as accomplished as it is hospitable.