Perhaps chef Satoshi Amitsu (ex Georges Blanc) is just being modest when he uses the term "semi-gourmet" cuisine on his website, because this bistro with an alluring red frontage more than holds its own on the restaurant scene. Deploying the precision for which the Japanese are renowned, the chef delights diners with pedigree Gallic cuisine replete with colours and contrasts, backed up by meticulous jus and sauces: smoked seabream, kohlrabi, fresh goat’s cheese, trout roe, fermented apricot dressing; caramelised upside-down apple pie, cinnamon-laced shortbread, cream cheese and rum-raisin ice cream. Insightful selection of wines by the glass that outstrips your average offer, with expert advice from the waiting staff.