From the pops of plaid and the jade-green painted wood panels to the rugs inspired by the tartan worn by the chef's grandfather in the Scottish Royal Regiment during World War I, there is no mistaking the inspiration behind Chef Kevin Gillespie's restaurant. It's a tribute to his heritage in more than just looks, though. The Scottish-leaning, contemporary menu (prix fixe or a multicourse tasting) is at once clever and approachable, as in the wood oven-roasted mushrooms tossed with house-made croutons accompanied by a fried farm egg and red wine hollandaise. Grilled American wagyu beef culotte with potato sarladise, grilled scallion relish, and foie mushroom gravy is another triumph. For dessert, nothing beats the Victorian-era lemon posset with macerated currants.