Maketto is the love child of the hip gods of fashion and food. Walk in off ever-changing H Street and you’ll instantly be met with glittering cases brimming with eyewear and accessories. Stave off the urge to shop (for now) and focus on the menu instead—a mod mashup of Cambodian and Taiwanese items. Coupled with inventive cocktails, it is proof positive that this is far from your average department store diner.
Everything on this menu is meant to share, though you might not want to with creative efforts like crispy Gruyère dumplings with Chinese beef chili. Classic soup dumplings are a favorite and fried chicken finished in a five-spice caramel is a high point. Spicy lamb noodles with fermented chili paste showcase the kitchen’s skill with a wok.