When trying to identify a top Italian restaurant, we either come across places which showcase a strong sense of professionalism and elegance that you associate with a fine dining experience, or those with the informal feel of a traditional trattoria, where regional-style home cooking is always to the fore – at La Alacena, it is definitely the latter. Here, owner-chef Julieta Oriolo puts her heart and soul into Italian cooking, honouring her family roots and demonstrating a true fascination with ingredients from the country. On her à la carte, where you’ll find an enticing selection of antipasti and a few dishes worthy of particular mention (such as the exquisite polpette dal sugo), pasta plays a leading role, handmade with durum wheat flour and free-range eggs (standout dishes include the veal ravioli with a home-made cream and caramelised fennel, and fettuccine with saffron). They also sell their own artisanal pasta two blocks away, at the La Alacena Pastificio & Salumeria.