Octant Hotels Vila Monte

The Algarve, Portugal’s southernmost province, is a destination seemingly ready-made for tourism. It’s covered with sandy beaches and sunshine, and just as places like New Zealand get comic mileage out of their ratios of sheep per capita, the Algarve seemingly has at least one hole of golf for every native family. Of course there are plenty of beach resorts, golf clubs, big hotels — and then there are escapes like the small-but-mighty Vila Monte.

Being located inland has its benefits, it turns out. For one thing, you’re more in touch with the quaint hilltop village character that drove the region’s popularity in the first place; for another, shouldering through crowds at the beach is far less restful than the immersive farm-chic ambience Monte has in store. Sprawling and nourishing in equal measure, this attractive little boutique takes full advantage of the fertile Algarve soil: central to the experience are the stately gardens, laced with walking paths and full to bursting with vivid color. A full complement of well-groomed cypresses, that badge of manorial honor, frame one’s view in every direction. It’s a rare pleasure to tour the plots of herbs and produce en route to a satisfying meal in which they play a starring role.

Speaking of which, À Terra restaurant is nearly worth the trip in itself. It’s an all-day fornaria, and its Josper grill and time-honored wood oven are far from ornamental; don’t miss out on xarém at its most authentic, a savory cornmeal porridge of sorts recalling centuries of Moorish rule. In fact, why not go the full Monte and tag along with the chef to the market on Saturdays — no better way to acquaint yourself with the area’s culinary bounty, especially the seafood. Fishermen around here are local legends for very good reason.

And nothing better to return to than a private room in a separate building. Accommodations thus manage complete privacy and an airy, elegant layout by the same token, many with furnished balconies to enjoy the garden’s morning glory. It all feels vaguely Greek thanks to the abundant plaster and white-and-blue palette, though tastefully applied accents help to liven things up: an accordion reading lamp here, wicker chairs there, rounded edges and archways to soften the affect. There’s free wi-fi and a flatscreen in every room, not to worry, but perhaps it’s better to stay on-theme via nature’s pastimes — reception will gladly arrange a beach picnic, golf lessons, horseback riding, or an oyster tasting.