The counter forms a U around the grill. Kitchen staff call out to each other as they devote themselves to their work. The chef builds his skewers with generous chunks of brand-name chicken and cooks them over high flame at close range. Salt is favoured over sauce, the better to draw out the flavour of the meat. Delightful flavour variations include whole chicken heart with ginger and chicken drumettes with a paste of yuzu zest and chilli peppers. The chef works hard to train the next generation, enriching and growing the world of yakitori.