Ruffian

Ruffian is tiny but mighty. This quirky gem has grunge chic down pat and has been hiding in plain sight turning out a host of creative dishes. Just like the diminutive space, the menu is equally small scale, featuring seasonal touches as it evolves from day to day. Braised fennel with a kosho aïoli and resting in red pepper purée is sweet and spicy, while roasted carrots are ramped up with a ginger labneh, dusted with house-made rendang powder and dots of honeycomb for an intensely flavorful and unexpected surprise. Then there is the short rib borscht, with its meltingly tender meat and vibrant red purée.
Popular with industry types, it's wise to make reservations, or be prepared to wait. However, a worthy wine list will help bide your time.