The front doesn’t look like much, but the latest opening from the talented Jua team on the edge of Koreatown captivates from the start. No need to rush: Start at the intimate bar, where Korean spirits are blended beautifully into sophisticated cocktails. Further in, find a two-story dining room washed over in warm, honeyed tones with stained glass windows and ceilings that reach for the sky. The Korean cooking is elegant without being fussy: Think twice-fried chicken and beef tartare alongside a brilliant, dry-aged branzino that’s grilled until the skin is as chip-crisp and served with soy mustard sauce. Bubbling hotpots, a picture-perfect bowl of Queen’s Gold rice topped with a mountain of uni, and noodles round out the selection.