The Purist Villas & Spa

In the hotel world there are a few things worth being a purist about, and the tradition of the Balinese boutique hotel is one of them. A mile or so outside of the town of Ubud, in Bali’s inner highlands, is a hotel that’s as close as you’re going to get to the Platonic idea of the modern villa resort. The Purist’s 16 villas and suites are exemplary for the care with which they’ve been assembled — at up to two bedrooms apiece, they’re practically residential in the quality of their finishes and furnishings.

The quality of personalized service is why you come, of course, and it’s equally extraordinary, including a butler on call round the clock to help plan day trips, arrange for cooking lessons, book a massage, or nearly anything else that comes to mind. That said, the accommodations themselves are private enough that the Purist often feels even smaller than it is — should you opt to take a meal poolside rather than en suite, you may be surprised by the sight of other guests.

“Indoor” and “outdoor” are complements rather than antonyms around here; every element of the design is intertwined with traditional Indonesian patterns and values, not to mention lush tropical tendrils. Yes, there are flatscreens and DVD players, but all that starts to sound a bit hollow next to a private plunge pool — or the central, be-jungled infinity pool. And Balisimo, the open-air “restaurant” and tapas bar, slings pan-Asian plates and inventive, floral cocktails right next door.

Shuttles leave twice daily for Ubud proper, Bali’s cultural center and artists’ colony, now grown into a tourist center defined by its high-minded contrast with the hedonistic beach scene (“that many eccentrics can’t be wrong” goes the saying we just made up). Get your textile and architectural kicks, but be certain not to skip the Purist’s own spa, a figurative island of tranquil minimalism. This being a literal island, though, you’ll also have easy access to hiking, climbing and river rafting, among other outdoor pursuits. There’s your theme once the plane touches down: easy access.

How to get there: The Purist Villas & Spa is located approximately 39 km by car from Ngurah Rai International Airport via Mandara Toll Road, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai, Jl. Raya Batu Bulan, Jl. Raya Lodtunduh, and Jl. Tirta Tawar.