Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus

The second Four Seasons in Istanbul is a different animal entirely from its sister in the Sultanahmet district. This one, right by the side of the Bosphorus, is quite a bit farther from the heart of the city’s tourist trade, and closer to the clubs, shops and restaurants where you’ll find the young, glamorous faces of modern Turkey.

That said, don’t expect much in the way of modern architecture here. This 19th-century palace has been well preserved, but any modernizing has happened beneath the surface. Rooms are clean-lined, but classic in style, and the spa and Turkish baths are as old-world as they come, marble colonnades and all.

What you can expect is the standard Four Seasons treatment, which is no ordinary thing. While the rest of the world was hiring hip young designers, Four Seasons was cranking the dial marked ‘old-fashioned luxury,’ which is perfect for Istanbul, a destination with no shortage of well-traveled and highly demanding visitors.

Despite the small size and retiring atmosphere about the place, there’s actually quite a bit of action nearby. If you can tear yourself from your front-row view of the Bosphorus (and from the pool, which is even closer) you’re a short drive from some of Istanbul’s most popular restaurants — and a quick ride in the hotel’s private speedboat from just about anywhere.