(Temporarily closed) Jars of fermented veggies and the crackle of a charcoal fire – just a quick glance at this sharp-edged designer restaurant gives an idea of what you can expect. Chef Yves Kerckhoffs demonstrates his passion for produce and his weakness for Japanese flavours. For example, he may dry-mature duck or use koji to age it, and his quest for umami flavours is truly fascinating. Sauces and jus take centre stage, illustrated by a torrefied yeast-based sauce and a reduction of langoustine, which flank and embellish grilled gurnard (fish). The fine lineup of natural wines and sakes ensures that you will have no difficulty finding the perfect tipple to pair with your meal.