Riva Arun Bangkok

As spectacular as Bangkok’s big luxury hotels may be — and trust us, spectacular they are — the capital has been slower to develop a boutique-hotel culture to match that of the rest of Thailand. Riva Arun, however, hits the spot. This 25-room hotel occupies a beautifully restored commercial building right alongside the Chao Phraya river, looking straight across the water at the distinctive spire of the Wat Arun temple.

The rooms are elegant, somewhat minimalist, though livened by flourishes of Chinese influence and shades of green, and while they’re not exactly enormous, they’re opened up considerably by their full-length windows and their often astonishing river views. Meanwhile the suites stretch out considerably, adding private balconies and, in some cases, outdoor jacuzzis.

A lobby lounge serves breakfast and an all-day menu of Western comfort food and street food–inspired Thai classics. And if the rooms have impressive views, what does that say about the rooftop restaurant? You’re at a bend in the river, we should add, so from Above Riva you’re treated to a spectacular panorama that wraps around three sides of the hotel. The menu features modern Thai cooking that’s inventive but still familiar — not a bad way to sum up Riva Arun itself, come to think of it.