After scrappy beginnings as a mobile kitchen, Chef/owners Stéphane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas transformed this cozy ten-table spot into the toast of downtown Petaluma. Warmly approachable service provides a pleasing backdrop to a seasonally inflected tasting menu (offered as either four or seven courses) comprised of elegant Californian cooking with classic French flourishes. A prime example might be found in a beautifully flaky pithivier filled with squab and kohlrabi, matched with buttery Robuchon-style potatoes. Desserts, too, show off a thoughtful combination of technique and flavor, as in a dressed up chestnut Mont Blanc with almond sable and blackberry sorbet.