Amusingly, you have to walk past Maurice’s newsagents before reaching the Parisian-style bistro of his son, Olivier. Gallic tradition permeates both the service and the food. Dishes range from a delicious white pudding of poultry, served with chunks of lobster, truffles and a frothy sabayon for a masterful finishing touch. The chef may add the occasional original note, but he remains a steadfast champion of classical French fare. A well-stocked wine cellar and a splendid choice of cigars and whiskeys round off this enticing portrait.