Jean Vrijdaghs and Sébastien Hankard have added a youthful buzz to this illustrious restaurant, that had at least one Michelin star from 1963 to 2011. The restaurant and guestrooms have been restored to their former glory thanks to a contemporary makeover. Premium ingredients like Brittany lobster and local game are flanked by veg from the restaurant’s garden, with a flawless attention to detail and an abundance of veteran technique to shine the spotlight on the ingredient. The duo of chefs draws inspiration from purebred classical recipes, to which they add a contemporary twist. A hint of acidity imparts a kick, together with a subtle scattering of originality, even if the score remains legible and familiar. The surprise lies in their refined craftsmanship: cooked foie gras with a red beetroot crème, a crème of fresh, tangy apples, a foamy emulsion of red beetroot and a subtle stock. Their enthusiasm is contagious, and it is a pleasure to see this grand old institution firmly back in the limelight.