Keen amateur cooks should ask for a seat at the L-shaped counter if they want a full view of a busy kitchen in action; if you’re coming in a larger group then request a table on the mezzanine floor. Spanish food in all its colour and vitality is celebrated here, from assorted tapas to classics like paella and suckling pig. All the dishes are generously sized and most are for sharing, so tend towards under-ordering unless you want plenty to take home with you. Start with Gilda, the classic Basque pintxo, and some jamón ibérico while you browse the menu.