‘Unkaku’ is a traditional pattern depicting cranes dancing in the clouds. Masaharu Shimamura sees himself as a crane; the image expresses his wish to fly high in the culinary world. In the thrifty spirit of Osaka cooking, he uses every part of his ingredients. His signature dish, ‘Nozaki-style grilled small sea bream’, is testament to that conviction. Recalling that the area around Nozaki Kannon Temple (Jigen-ji) was once famed for its canola, Shimamura simmers the fish in rapeseed oil so that even the bones of this fish served whole can be eaten.