Indigo-dyed norens are a traditional craft of Tokushima. Indigo blue is the keynote colour of chairs and trays as well, symbolising Tokushima and declaring the chef’s birthplace. Seafood arrives from fishermen in Naruto and Minami. Vegetables and soy sauce are also specially sourced, and the brand-name citrus fruit is a point of pride. Soba-gome jiru porridge is hometown cooking prepared with buckwheat seeds and vegetables. Be sure to try the ramen, made with Handa somen. In Osaka, the city of the chef’s apprenticeship, he showcases the charms of his hometown.