There is nothing subtle about Chef Cesar Zapata and Ani Meinhold’s raucous Vietnamese mash-up in the MiMo district. A concrete compound wrapped in glowing red lanterns, the restaurant is practically a club with its sultry lighting, cavernous interior and full-time DJ. Yet, none of it gets in the way of the food, which is boldly seasoned and generously portioned. Stacks of crispy imperial rolls wrapped with mint and tangles of garlic-butter egg noodles aggressively charred on a wok are solid starting points. Everything is meant to be shared, especially the pho, which arrives in a cauldron packed with herbs, rice noodles and a meltingly tender slab of hickory-smoked short rib.
All the while, a nearby table might launch into song. You are welcome to join the fun.