This former blacksmith's workshop was transformed into a farmhouse inn by the chef's grandmother. Back then it catered to workers and locals, who came for simple, invigorating fare – soup, vol-au-vents, leg of lamb. Under the impetus of Olivier Bellin, who returned to his roots in 1998, the family inn has morphed into a sleek, stylish venue as its inventive, versatile chef has come into his own, brandishing an increasingly strong culinary personality. He works with an extraordinary network of hand-picked small-scale producers in Finistère whose work and produce are naturally highlighted. His dishes marry surf and turf ingredients with disconcerting poise: pomme soufflée (‘puffed potatoes) stuffed with oyster jus; langoustine and pig's trotter; blue lobster and asparagus and Kari Gosse…