At the helm of Dubai’s MICHELIN-selected Hutong’s kitchen, chef Ren Dingxu brings his unique expertise to the delicate art of Cantonese pastries. Originally from Chengdu, China, chef Ren’s culinary journey began when he was just 18, honing his skills and delving into the fine art of Chinese cuisine.
Since 2019, he has been infusing Dubai’s dining scene with the bold flavours of Sichuan and Cantonese cuisines, balancing tradition and innovation. Here, he shares his techniques, from ingredient prep to serving on crafting the ideal lotus pastry, a classic Cantonese delight.
Chef Ren’s Influences: Culinary Roots and Inspirations
Growing up in Chengdu, “food was always a central part of my life,” chef Ren says, being surrounded by a family deeply passionate about food, instilling in him a respect for ingredients and a love for culinary artistry. This early connection was strengthened by mentors and esteemed chefs who demonstrated how cooking could transform ingredients into refined dishes, inspiring Chef Ren to perfect his own culinary style—a fusion of tradition with modern twists suited to an international audience.His move to Dubai marked a pivotal career moment, not only due to Hutong’s esteemed presence but also for the creative freedom it offered. “Coming to Dubai was transformative,” chef Ren explains. “It opened doors to new inspirations and allowed me to explore ways to bring the authenticity of Chinese cuisine to an international audience.” Chef Ren’s dedication to maintaining Hutong’s unique style across locations while tailoring dishes to regional tastes has allowed him to showcase his expertise in bridging tradition and contemporary culinary expectations.
The Lotus Pastry: Layers of Craft and Flavour
One of Hutong’s most iconic dishes, the Lotus Pastry, reflects chef Ren’s philosophy of marrying traditional techniques with a touch of modernity. Drawing from his own culinary traditions, chef Ren’s lotus pastries pay homage to traditional Cantonese craftsmanship.
This intricate pastry, with its crispy layers and rich lotus seed filling, is a staple in Cantonese cuisine. Using both “oil dough” and “water dough,” chef Ren achieves a delicate, flaky crust that holds a lightly sweetened lotus filling. Each bite reveals the careful layering and folding required to produce a pastry that is both crisp and tender.
“Lotus pastries are a classic Cantonese layered pastry, known for their crispy, flaky texture and unique lotus seed filling,” he explains. The meticulous process starts with two types of dough: “oil dough” and “water dough.” The two doughs are carefully layered to create the thin, crisp strata that the pastry is known for.
“Chilling the dough is essential to achieving that crispiness. It’s a step that may seem simple, but it makes a difference in the texture,” he says. "The coolness prevents the layers from merging, allowing each fold to remain distinct.”
The next steps in the process require precision and patience. The doughs are folded and rolled multiple times, creating thin, delicate layers. Chef Ren emphasises the importance of maintaining an even hand when rolling out the dough.
“Even pressure is crucial, as it ensures that each layer bakes uniformly. Overworking the dough can toughen it, so you have to treat it with respect.”
After each fold, he lets the dough rest. This helps prevent the gluten from becoming too elastic and snapping back, a crucial element in keeping the pastry tender. “Resting is as important as the folding itself,” he advises. “It allows the dough to relax, which results in a flakier texture.”
As for the filling, it is crafted from lotus seeds, which are cooked and lightly sweetened, balancing the natural earthiness of the seeds with a touch of sugar. Chef Ren uses a refined process to achieve the perfect texture. “The lotus paste should be smooth and creamy, with a flavour that’s not overpowering. It should support the pastry’s texture rather than dominate it,” he notes.
The method of layering the two doughs, called lamination, is similar to the technique used for puff pastries. This folding process traps air between the layers, which, when fried, causes the pastry to puff up slightly, creating that light, airy texture. Frying at just the right temperature is essential. Too hot, and the layers won’t fully separate; too cool, and the pastry will absorb too much oil. Chef Ren fries the pastry until it’s golden brown, giving it a crisp exterior that contrasts beautifully with the tender filling.
Equipment and Ingredients: Essential Tools for Success
Crafting these pastries requires a few staple tools: a rolling pin, a mixing bowl, and either a baking tray or fryer. The ingredients include flour, shortening, butter for the dough, and lotus seeds with sugar for the filling. Chef Ren notes that a touch of salt enhances the overall depth of flavour. “Good dough and a light hand are essential,” he explains, recommending patience and precision at every step.
Image credit: tavan amonratanasareegul/iStock
The Art of Presentation
In chef Ren’s hands, the lotus pastries become not only a treat for the tastebuds but a visual experience as well. “Presentation is essential,” he says. He prefers to plate the pastries on a simple, light-coloured dish to allow the golden layers to stand out. “Cutting the pastry slightly reveals the intricate layers, and I like to add edible flowers or a touch of cucumber for a hint of colour.”Eating for Enjoyment: The Perfect Bite
For the best tasting experience, the chef recommends savouring a gentle bite, allowing the contrasts between crisp layers and the smooth lotus filling to unfold. Paired with a warm beverage, each bite offers a balance of sweetness and warmth, a refined delight that nods to centuries of Cantonese baking tradition.Pure, Crisp, and Perfectly Paired: The EIRA Water Experience
To complement the light and crisp texture of chef Ren’s lotus pastry, Hutong serves EIRA water, known for its pristine origins and remarkable purity. Originating from the untouched fjords of Norway, EIRA water flows through ancient layers of gneiss and granite, creating a refreshingly smooth and naturally filtered taste. This unique filtration journey imparts a distinct clarity to the water, which mirrors the fine, airy layers of the lotus pastry, offering a refreshing contrast that enhances each bite.
With its crystal-clear taste, EIRA water provides a harmonious pairing to the delicate balance of the pastry’s rich lotus filling and flaky crust. Just as the pastry’s layers are crafted with care, EIRA’s purity and softness are refined by nature, allowing it to highlight the subtle flavours of chef Ren's creation. Together, the pastry and water create a balanced culinary experience, celebrating purity, texture, and the artistry of natural elements.
Final Tips: The Chef’s Trick for Crisp Perfection
For those daring enough to try their hand at lotus pastries, chef Ren has one final piece of advice: patience. “Each step, from chilling the dough to folding and frying, requires time and care,” he says. “But when you take that first bite and taste the crisp layers and smooth lotus paste, you’ll see that it’s worth it.”Chef Ren’s journey from Chengdu to Dubai, his experiences across continents, and his dedication to perfecting every layer of his dishes reflect a true mastery that resonates with every bite of his lotus pastries. This artistry is what makes his pastries stand out in a global culinary landscape and embodies the essence of Hutong’s cuisine—a beautiful blend of heritage and innovation.
