At the Col de la Couillole, a pass in the Mercantour National Park, this former refuge run by Pauline and Christophe Billau is a top destination for foodies. These two serve up a warm welcome and a single set menu that draws inspiration from the mountains and changes with the seasons. Diners can indulge in creamy local mountain nettle cappuccino, superb roasted white asparagus, whether tangy with candied citrus fruit or in a sabayon sauce, or lightly smoked Mediterranean tuna served confit-style and subtly counterbalanced by the herbal notes of oxalis. Dishes such as veal from the Plateau de Longon accompanied by confit shallots and a courgette flower filled with pine nuts and a herb cream are brimming with skilfully mastered flavours, while the cheeses are carefully matured. There's nothing superfluous or artificial about this place! A few prettily decorated guestrooms are up for grabs for overnight stays.