Béziers-born chef Fabien Lefebvre is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France and no stranger to us here (previously at Octopus and still at the helm of Pica-Pica). This restaurant is housed in an Art Deco building with a modern extension: a successful makeover abounding with curving floral forms, with a round dining space done out in soft, natural and organically shaped materials. The chef delivers a modern take on Mediterranean cuisine that pays homage to quality ingredients and conjures up well-defined flavours on the plate. One fine example is his turbot meunière with a grilled fish bone jus and celeriac millefeuille. Remarkably warm, attentive and competent service. Opt for four to six courses from a set menu that is constantly evolving in line with the seasons and the markets. The wine list boasts 800 labels.