This owner-chef, who was born in Auvergne of Dutch parents, deploys his culinary talent in this modern, designer-inspired workshop, depicted by an open kitchen, grey stone floor, rough wood planking and bare light bulbs. An inspired mechanic, he gets a kick out of fine-tuning dishes that are as delicate as they are inventive, made with ingredients from near (Boudes lamb, Mézenc beef, Billom black garlic) and far (Brittany langoustine and eels from Holland). The memory of his delicate al dente carrot greens flanked by a cream of grilled leek, herbs and flowers and underscored by a knockout dashi-flavoured butter and a lemon confit paste lingers with us still. The greeting and the service are both professional and refreshingly unstarched.