Spending time with loved ones is a must at Christmas, and what better way to smile and laugh with friends or family than on a short break in a truly magical location? Those looking for the perfect destination might not instantly think of Riga, but we guarantee you’ll enjoy spending time in this wonderful city.
Across Latvia, darkness reigns at this time of year, but Riga’s skies are illuminated by glittering lights and the glow of market stalls, bringing a warming, magical feel to the place. These longer hours of darkness also provide the opportunity for some beautiful light displays, with the Christmas light trail always a real draw.
Start at Kronvalda Park, where oversized mittens and a radiant sleigh sit beneath twinkling stars, before heading on to Bastejkalns Park, where 3 metre high ice crystals lead the way to a majestic horse which lights up the sky. Cross the bridge which dissects the park, where shimmering stars reflect off the canal, then make for the Opera House where you’ll find the centrepiece of the trail, an 11 metre glittering moon which comes with a festive soundtrack of Christmas melodies and fairy tales. Meanwhile, further north, the ‘Garden of Light’ comes to Riga’s Mežaparks; an outdoor multimedia exhibition telling the story of Snow White through enchanting landscapes.
After indulging your visual senses, it’s off to Dome Square in the heart of the Old Town for the Christmas Markets, to buy some unique gifts and unashamedly eat and drink until you can no more. Snow crunches underfoot, there’s an infectious buzz in the air and the aromatic smell of mulled wine, homemade gingerbread (piparkūkas) and roasted almonds fills the air.
If you enjoy travelling, you’ll likely have tried many variations of mulled wine around the world but, here in Latvia, you must be sure to sample hot blackcurrant juice with a dash of the county’s national spirit, Riga Black Balsam. It’s sweet, sticky and a seasonal hit!
Riga Black Balsam was created in 1752 by apothecary Abraham Kunze and promoted for its healing properties (legend has it that Catherine the Great had an illness cured by the drink when she visited the city). Thought to be the oldest bitter brand in the world, it has a bittersweet, umami taste profile; when drunk neat, it is dark and complex, but it’s also very versatile when it comes to being mixed.
Today, it comprises 24 natural ingredients – including 17 botanicals – and contains herbs and roots such as valerian, wormwood, ginger and gentian. The botanicals are infused in a water-spirit mix in a barrel, then the resulting essence is blended with other ingredients such as honey, caramel and natural juices. This is then poured into a clay bottle, where it interacts with the natural material and continues to develop for the next 6 months. Only the master distiller and his apprentice know the exact details of the creation process, which adds an intriguing air of mystery to this unique drink.
Once you’ve warmed yourself up with this Latvian speciality, it’s on to shopping. There’s a great array of Latvian handicrafts on offer at the markets, including the likes of silver and amber jewellery; wooden toys and homewares; Latvian honey; sweet-scented candles; and woollen mittens, socks, hats and scarves. With all this and more on offer, you’re sure to find something for all the family, as well as some great souvenirs to enjoy year-after-year.
When it’s time to eat, there’s plenty to choose from. A must at Christmas are the traditional crescent-shaped pīrāgi – small, rich, buttery pastries filled with chopped bacon and onions, and sometimes mixed with spices. Also worth a try is the traditional sklandrausis, an open tart which mixes sweet and spiced flavours and is eaten cold; a layer of sweet rye dough is topped with potato and carrot paste, with spices such as caraway, cinnamon and cloves sometimes also added. If you’re after more than just a snack, choose from the likes of wild boar sausages – with their distinctive and gamey taste – and an array of delicious locally smoked meats.
In the colder weather, proximity to your hotel is key. Thankfully, within easy reach of Dome Square are two Michelin-recommended hotels – even better, each also comes with its own Michelin-recommended restaurant, so once you’ve set down your bags there’s nothing more to do than settle in and cosy up for the night.
The understatedly chic Hotel Neiburgs is a beautiful Art Nouveau edifice with subtly modern interiors and well-chosen comforts, and rather than being ‘in your face’, it’s suitably discreet in its approach, which only makes it cooler. Its ‘smallest’ rooms are Studio Apartments, with homely touches such as rugs and kitchenettes. As you move up the grades, the finishes get finer, the spaces larger and, by the time you’re in a suite, it feels more like an impeccably designed private residence than a typical boutique hotel room.
It’s family-owned and their ethos is “You are where you stay, what you eat and what you see”, so it’s only natural that their restaurant promotes a smart environment but with a pleasingly relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere. The cooking is fresh and unfussy and, like the hotel itself, has a classical base and modern overtones. Alongside local dishes are some with Mediterranean influences, and the seafood options are particularly appealing.
Another Art Nouveau marvel comes in the form of a renovated 17th century residence in a charming side street: the Dome Hotel & Spa. Here, the old world meets modern luxe design, as classical ceilings and ancient frescos preside over minimalist furniture, and rooms incorporate bold modernist armchairs and bright monochrome linens into an atmosphere that still contains hints of upper-class gentility.
The 24-hour concierge service offers assistance with everything from booking theatre tickets to reserving a flight on a private plane, but the hotel also has plenty of leverage for keeping guests within its walls. After a tiring day’s shopping, head for the Finnish sauna on the fifth floor; here, you can relax to breathtaking views of the Old Town and the Dome Cathedral. Then it’s on to the intimate restaurant for a cocktail and a great choice of fish and meat dishes.
The long, narrow room has a vaulted ceiling, and the walls are adorned with black and white photos of the Old Town (if you fancy coming back in summer, the restaurant transfers to the lovely roof terrace with a view of the Cathedral and the Daugava River). Cooking is modern and creative, with some original twists, but it also shows a pleasing amount of restraint. Fish and seafood are to the fore and come with subtle international influences, but the prime ingredients originate mostly from the Baltic region. For those celebrating, there’s also a caviar selection and some top-end wines available.
So, head to Riga for the holidays and discover somewhere new, with top restaurants, high-end hotels and festive fun for all the family.
Christmas Opening Hours
Light Trail: 1st December 2023 to 5th February 2024
Dome Square Market: 3rd December 2023 to 8th January 2024
