The pared-down, ersatz-industrial look of the restaurant gains extra animation from the open kitchen, while warmth and personality come courtesy of the delightful service team. The dishes may appear to be as unadorned as the room, but don’t be fooled – they are technically accomplished, cleverly composed and boast plenty of depth and sophistication. The excellent ingredients – be that red mullet or mutton – provide flavours that are clean, unadulterated and a joy to experience. There’s a set menu at dinner; for lunch there’s an array of individually prices dishes.