Petra Hotel & Suites

In the Dodecanese, a collection of islands that more or less defines the word “idyll,” Patmos is sometimes called the most idyllic island of them all — and Petra Hotel & Suites, an eleven-room boutique hotel built into the hill above the sleepy little fishing village of Grikos, simply completes the fantasy. The rooms are awash in Aegean light even if — who knows why — you close the curtains on your view of Grikos Bay, a seascape of translucent blue water and bobbing sailboats (with a smattering of steep, verdant islets for punctuation).

That bay is a happily constant presence at Petra Hotel, visible also from each room’s private balcony, the backdrop to breakfast on the breezy terrace, a mirror of the pool which is mosaic’d in blue tile. It’s basically the reason you travel all the way to a tucked away, family-run B&B in the Greek Isles, to gaze at that bay — which would be a ridiculous notion if it weren’t as stuff-of-fantasies pretty as it is, and if this particular mom and pop weren’t such natural hoteliers.

It’s not entirely easy to get to Grikos, which, if you’ve been to some of the world’s more accessible idyllic island destinations, you’ll recognize as part of the appeal. There’s no airport on the island of Patmos, so once you’ve arrived at one of the neighboring islands, it’s still a lengthy (though not unpleasant) ferry ride. And even on Patmos, Grikos is not the largest settlement. Chora takes that honor, and just five minutes from the hotel, it’s well worth a detour to see its whitewashed homes crowded around twisting lanes designed to foil pirates. Especially in August, Chora gets its share of visitors, but even in high season, the hotel feels pleasantly out of the way.

The closest excursion is to Grikos Beach, which is a short walk downhill from the hotel. It’s not empty, but neither is it a hard-partying hotspot — the clued-in island hoppers who make their way to Grikos, and to the hotel itself, are after an older, more elemental version of the Greek Isle experience. And at Petra Hotel, they get it.

Please note: Petra Hotel & Suites requires a two night minimum and is open seasonally from the end of April through October.

How to get there: Leros airport to Patmos is approximately 45 minutes by boat transfer. Kos airport to Patmos is approximately 2 and ½ hours by boat transfer. A semi-private transfer from Patmos harbour to the hotel can be arranged in advance at the cost of 20€ per person round trip. Transfer service includes a welcome drink, sparkling wine, and traditional Patmian treats upon their arrival at the hotel.