Susafa

Sicily’s a sweet-spot destination: a Mediterranean island large enough to get lost, a trip to Italy without the inevitable crowd-crush, an archaeological and geological motherlode. Yet tough as the competition may be, Susafa still manages to stand out. A working farm in Sicily’s rustic, hilly interior, this country boutique hotel distills centuries of hospitality and husbandry into a charming, restful bullseye — it’s commanded the verdant countryside for five generations under the stewardship of the Saeli-Rizzuto family.

The 17 guestrooms retain their original ceiling beams and antique tiles in an environment of age-softened austerity. Everything reads practical minimalism, from the beds’ clean country luxury to the worn window shutters to the spacious, en-suite bathrooms. You come here for the isolation, it’s clear, which justifies the lack of TV and other anachronisms; the rolling hills more than suffice in their stead, subtly perfumed with wild herbs and serenaded by birdsong. It takes a certain age to appreciate what a rarity that is — in other words, don’t expect a kids’ activity room.

Il Granaio restaurant and Susafa’s wine bar occupy the former granary and winery, respectively, each the absolute picture of old-world Sicilian hospitality: cozy lounge chairs, terra-cotta flooring, exposed masonry, and a sizable fireplace make excellent conversational fodder. We may be biased, but any place that produces its own olive oil sounds like a safe bet; they’ll even walk you through their recipes with a cooking class or two.

Views are undoubtedly the name of the game around here, thanks to the elevation, and a sensual backdrop to the modest environs. In the warmer months, take them in from the panoramic outdoor pool, framed with stately trees and flowery shrubs, or even better, from the rooftop terrace. With patience, early risers will be treated to the sun evaporating fog from its overnight berth in the valleys as it rises — and later, perfect, blessed silence descending with it as it sets.

Please note: Susafa is a seasonal hotel and is open from April through early November.

How to get there: Susafa is located approximately 125 km by car from Palermo Airport.