"Here, the bouillabaisse cosies up to the aioli, and the pissaladière (tart with onions, olives and anchovies) competes with the socca (chickpea flatbread), just out of the coal-fired oven." Julia Sedefdjian (formerly of Les Fables de la Fontaine, also in Paris) is now happily thriving in her own establishment. Her colourful and fragrant cuisine is an ode to the Mediterranean (her "Bouillabaieta", a superb take on bouillabaisse, is a must) and fine ingredients, which she selects painstakingly and blends creatively, without forgetting her roots in Nice. The chef now solely proposes a series of surprise set menus. Welcome to Baieta – which means "kiss" in the Nice dialect!